American Whippet Club 1980 - 1981 Whippet Annual |
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Pages 76-101 A special thanks to Heather and Everett Dansereau of Devonair Whippets for this great historical piece.
BIS Am.Can.Ch. Chehalem's Double Dealer (CH. PATHENS SAJA SUKA x AM.CAN.CH. KAI ESA'S MOOD INDIGO)
#1 Whippet in the Pacific Northwest finishing his second year in the Top Ten. Dealer is now retiring from the show ring to pursue his running career and cheer on his winning offspring now old enough to be shown.
Am.Can.Ch. Chehalem Luck Be A Lady T 'Nite, F.Ch. (CH. PATHENS SAJA SUKA x AM.CAN.CH. KAI ESA'S MOOD INDIGO)
Lisa won in a whirlwind three championship titles by the age of 18 months. Owned and Loved by CAROLYNE JACKSON P.O. BOX 634 VENETA, OREGON 97487
Ch. Chehalem's Sand Storm (CH. PINETOPS CHATTERBOX x AM.CAN.CH. KAI ESA'S MOOD INDIGO)
This elegant showy brindle dog finished his championship with 2 BOB and a Group 4 from the classes, shown by his breeder. Aristo will be out in 1981 with his new handler, Mr. E.R. Hastings. Owner TIAMI COLEBURG RT 4 BOX 191 POULSBO WASHINGTON 98370 (206) 779-3533
Ch. Chehalem s Ace High (CH. PATHENS SAJA SUKA.x AM.CAN.CH. KAI ESA'S MOOD INDIGO)
Ace finished his championship in heavy California competition with 3 majors. Many thanks to Hank Speight and Marti Bradford for handling and loving him. He is now home being handled by his Junior Handler, Jennifer Bates. Owned by CAROLYNN BATES LAGNIAPPE KENNELS Chehalem s Lagniappe (CH. PATHENS SAJA SUKA x AM.CAN.CH. KAI ESA'S MOOD INDIGO)
Lainie, Ace's younger full sister, has been creating quite a storm herself by taking Winners Bitch and again Winners Bitch and Best of Opposite Sex over bitch Specials from 6-9 Puppy class under breeder-judge Richard Reynolds. She will be out in earnest in 1981, looking for the finish. Owned by CAROLYNN & JENNIFER BATES LAGNIAPPE KENNELS (214)298-8863
Chehalem's Black Jack Natural, F.Ch. (CH. PATHENS SAJA SUKA x AM.CAN.CH. KAI ESA'S MOOD INDIGO)
Black Jack has taken the Northwest by storm in a whirlwind of firsts and BOB's, finishing his Field Championship at the A.S.F.A. Regional Trial October 12th. His BOB win November 9th at the Southern Oregon Sighthound Club Trial began his quest for L.C.M. points. Jack is pictured above winning WD and BW at the Portland Kennel Club show under Judge Cynthia Guzevich. The weekend before, at the San Mateo Kennel Club show in California, Edna Travinek also chose him as WD and BW. Thank you Jan Van Wormer for letting us co-own Jack with you. Thank you Holly Haynes for training Jack. And thank you Sayra for your fine son. HE'S A NATURAL! TAVANAI, DIXON & ROSEMARY POWER 90030 POWER LANE ELMIRA, OREGON 97437 (503)935-3963
Chehalem's Keno Card (CH. PATHENS SAJA SUKA x AM.CAN.CH. KAI ESA'S MOOD INDIGO)
With limited showing, Keno has 4 majors and lacks only 2 points to finish his Championship in the ring, and is only 20 points away from finishing his Field Championship. Owned by NICK & CARLA McCARROLL 3000 CAMPUS VIEW DR. GRANTS PASS, OREGON 97526 Ch. Kindochaline's Katrine (KINDOCHALINE'S CINDER x BEELINE'S HOUR OF FORTUNE)
Katie has been a busy young lady this year. In three months time she has raised her litter out of "Dealer" and finished her Championship, owner-handled. She is halfway to her Field Championship in 3 outings. Also following in his parents footsteps, Dealer and Katie's son, Chehalem's Fire and Ice, owned by Janet Slater and Betty Johnson has 2 Best in Matches.
Chehalem's Wyndy Knox Knoll, F.Ch. (CH. PINETOPS CHATTERBOX x AM.CAN.CH, KAI ESA'S MOOD INDIGO)
With her extraordinary speed and agility, Wyndy has taken multi BOB in the field. She is now working toward her LCM. Wyndy plans to be in the ring with her breeder in late 1981. Breeder Owner JAN VAN WORMER PATSY HOLESAPPLE Knox Knoll Kapable Apryl (BIS AM.CAN.CH. CHEHALEM'S DOUBLE DEALER x AM.CAN.CH. CHEHALEM LUCK BE A LADY T'NITE, F.CH.)
Apryl took first in sprints, first in lure and highest scoring sighthound in field her first time out at Hound Fanciers Match! She is also ARM qualified. Watch for her after the first of the year in the field and ring. Litter whelped Nov. 17, 1980 - Ch. Pathens Saja Suka x Lyth Dhu (Eng. Import.) Owner PATSY HOLESAPPLE KNOX KNOLL KENNELS Rt 1 Box 116-4 Carlton, Oregon 97111 (503)852-7395
Chehalem's Lighting Strikes (CH. PINETOPS CHATTERBOX x AM.CAN.CH. KAI ESA'S MOOD INDIGO)
Buzz has fully recovered from an injury that kept him from the ring. He will be out with his breeder in 1981 to resume his winning streak. Buzz is pointed in the field and in the ring - with BOB over Specials. Buzz would like to thank Barbara Branchik for Bourani's Double Dealin' Devil, his elegant black and orange brindle playmate. Watch for her in the Northwest show ring this year. Buzz & Snickers Loved by SANDRA HARRINGTON 95413 HIWAY 99E JUNCTION CITY, OREGON 97448 (503)998-2190 hehalem Kennel is proud to have been honored by the Judges who placed us WD, WB and/or Best of Breed at 40 of 47 shows this year. In response to this encouragement we have repeated the "Sayra x Suka" breeding. Janet Van Wormer
Founded on a mating between BIS Am.Can.Ch. CHEHALEM'S DOUBLE DEALER
Thanks to Briarwyke Kennels and Julie Blomberg for Penny, to Jan Van Wormer, Sayra and Suka for Dealer and to Sandy Harrington, who will be on the move in '81 with Bouranis Double Dealin Devil. BARBARA BRANCHIK 5320 ROYAL AVE. EUGENE , OREGON 97402 (503)689-0719 Thanks to Briarwyke Kennels and Julie Blomberg for Penny, to Jan Van Wormer, Sayra and Suka for Dealer and to Sandy Harrington, who will be on the move in '81 with Bouranis Double Dealin Devil. BARBARA BRANCHIK 5320 ROYAL AVE. EUGENE , OREGON 97402 (503)689-0719
(CH. MISTY MOOR'S CHALMONDOLEY X CH. GOLD-DUST'S TWENTY FOUR KARAT) HER NAME IS GOLD-DUST'S DEJA VU. CAN YOU SEE WHY? She is a product of two top Specialty winning whippets. We believe KARI has won the most and the largest Specialties of all time. (Four Nationals). Both Deja and her sister, Gold-Dust's Jet-Set, will soon be seen at the shows. As a point of interest to all the greyhound afficionados, we would like to say that Vicky (Ch. Grey Roc Winged Victory) has whelped her first litter at age 6+! Gold-Dust has had a very productive year! GOLD-DUST Joan & Bob Goldstein 5 Klinger Lane Warren, New Jersey 07060 (201)561-3833 IN MEMORY EPINARD SHELBY OF WYNDSOR A.R.M., P.C.C., F.Ch. Shelby OCTOBER 9, 1969 — DECEMBER 17, 1980 Pale grey cold filtered sunlight Crimson and green drinks on flying wings. All is without breath silent and deep. He just gone for now. Shelby 17 December 1980 Shelby To know Shelby was to love Shelby, and loved he was. Especially by Jean and Vince, Christopher and Bob Balint with whom he shared his life. No dog had a better family; no family had a better dog! Shelby will be missed so very much by so very many! This Memorial Dedicated by friends of Shelby.
Training and Grooming the Whippet as a Show Dog By Doris S. Wear One of the many good features of our breed is the ease with which a Whippet can be prepared for the show ring. First, because of his extraordinary adaptability he is very easy to train; and secondly, due to his short, smooth coat he requires so little trimming and grooming compared to many other breeds. Yet these two very assets can be the downfall of an exhibitor who relies on them TOO MUCH and to the exclusion of ANY training or ANY grooming of his prospect prior to showing. Here are a few "words of wisdom" to the uninitiated would-be Whippet exhibitor on things I have learned from experience over the years. TRAINING Puppies SHOULD be introduced to the lead somewhere between the ages of two and three months. I find it better not to use a show lead as it tends to cut and therefore frighten them unduly when they fight it, which most Whippet puppies will certainly do to a greater or lesser degree. Also, since a show lead is apt to loosen when a dog pulls back on it, a puppy stands a good chance of wrenching free of the lead and making his get-away, thus giving him a wrong idea right at the start of his training. Use a leather collar about an inch or more wide with a buckle and adjust it to fit snugly right behind the ears so that he cannot possibly pull out of it. Or, if the puppy is older and bigger when his training begins, a regular wide Whippet collar of the sort that can be slipped over the dog's head but tightens under pressure can be used successfully. However, this type should be used with care as an occasional recalcitrant individual can learn to slacken up on the lead, then drop his head and "duck out" of the collar! Very short training sessions are best at first. Be cheerful but firm, and let the puppy know right from the start that HE is going YOUR, way, you are NOT going HIS! Anything you can do to make your and your puppy's usually divergent ideas coincide will make training just that much easier, so decide where you think he might like to go and take him there. In my own set-up I generally start my puppies by taking them one by one from the kennel to the grass paddock where they have been used to going (being carried) for play and exercise. Even though these are only a few yards from the kennel, this short walk on lead with something pleasant at the end of it (being free to run and play) is enough, and usually by the third or fourth day, the job is done! For a one or two dog non-kennel owner (to whom these words are addressed) the same effect can be accomplished by walking the puppy on lead just from one room to another with which he has pleasant associations, such as the kitchen where he's used to being fed or perhaps a porch where he is used to playing. Be sure to talk to him en couragingly and give him plenty of praise and a romp at the end of the lesson. The average Whippet puppy, being the clever and adaptable little guy that he is will put up only a token fight and will then suddenly capitulate completely and dis armingly! Of course there are extremes at either end of the behavior scale - the pup who, from the first moment of training walks right off on the lead like a seasoned campaigner AND the pup who, at the first feel of the collar, squats on his haunches, plants his feet, and says "I WON'T". With this last, do NOT make the mi stake of going back to the puppy to try to coax and cajole him into coming. Speak to him cheerfully and walk a few steps, pulling him gently but firmly along. Then, well before he completely strangles, stop and without easing the pressure on the lead, pull HIM to YOU. Then, and only then pick him up, pat and reassure him. Do this several times and then whether you think you made any headway or not, call it quits for the day. You may be surprised the next day when he walks right off with you like an old timer! If he doesn't do not despair; it won't be long before he does. So much for the rudiments of leash breaking. During this same period it is wise to also accustom the puppy to standing on a table in a semblance of show pose WITHOUT a LEAD OR COLLAR for a VERY few minutes at a time. Now, as do the horse trainers with their yearlings (to which your puppy at this age roughly corresponds) turn your puppy "out to grass" and forget about any more training till about a month before you want to show him. (I hope this will not be till he's at least eight or nine months old except for a specialty.) Never fear, the pup will not forget what he's learned, and he'll be fresh and ready to go on from where you left off. Start the formal phase of his training INFORMALLY with a few good walks on the broad collar. These should be "fun" walks to see new sights, sniff new smells, etc. At this time take him to unfamiliar places, as many different ones as possible. Allow him to walk ahead or on either side of you on a loose lead. This is "see-the world" education for him, and he should not be asked, at this time, to concentrate, amid all the fascinating distractions, on being a show dog. This is the period during which YOU can study your dog. Notice carefully his reaction to strange sights, sounds and smells, and also observe the way he moves. This will be helpful to you later on when you show him. After your puppy thoroughly associates these on-lead walks with a good time and he seems to enjoy them, start him on the show lead. LET HIM KNOW THAT THESE SESSIONS ARE SERIOUS. They can and should continue to be fun, but they also MEAN BUSINESS. From the moment the show lead slips over his head, never let him get his head down. Take him to any area, indoors or out, that can be made into a reasonable facsimile of a show ring. Start by posing him in show position on the ground. Do not let him lean on the lead. If you use the finest lead that will control him, he will be disinclined to lean, as it will feel sharp under his chin. This is why the broad collar should be used for exercise and fun walks. (Whippets with their sensitive throats are quick to learn the distinction.) Keep the lead adjusted snugly right up behind his ears and forward of his "Adam's Apple" underneath. A series of scarcely perceptible jerks that amount to no more than a tremor of your hand will act as a deterrent to his leaning on the lead and will also help to hold his attention. During this period MAKE FREQUENT USE OF THE WORDS "STAND" while posing him and "STAY" when he is in position. Use a QUIET but firm voice and ALWAYS USE THE SAME WORDS IN THE SAME TONE. THIS IS IMPORTANT. Do not make the pup pose too long at first. If/when he moves a foot (or feet), say "NO" sternly, then again quietly but emphatically the "stand - stay" as above. Do not expect perfection at first, but as soon as he holds a nearly proper pose for a brief minute, break him out of it, and pat and praise him effusively. BE SURE IT IS YOU WHO BREAKS HIS POSE. If he beats you to it, correct him sternly and go through the whole process again. HE MUST LEARN FROM THE START TO HOLD HIS POSE TILL RELEASED FROM IT BY HIS HANDLER. Now start walking in a circle to the LEFT as in the show ring with the puppy, of course, on your left side, and the end of your show lead balled up in the palm of your left hand. (Nothing looks more awkward than the end of the lead dangling down, aside from the fact that it hits the dog right in the face and scares him.) I like to keep the lead, at least while training, just tight enough to exert a steadying pressure on the dog's neck. At this stage, of course, the young fellow will want to barge ahead, cavort from side to side, get his head down to sniff - all the things he's been allowed to do on those fun walks with the nice, broad non-cutting collar. Now is the time for him to learn that a show lead means a steady gait and perfect manners. Keep walking at an even and fairly fast pace around and around your circle always to the left. Encourage him in a cheerful
tone of voice if he seems to need it, and use a firm "STEADY" in a repressive tone if it's a bronco act he's putting on. You will be surprised how quickly he'll Give your young dog a training session daily, if possible, ONLY UNTIL HE GIVES EVIDENCE OF KNOWING WHAT IT'S ALL ABOUT AND IMMEDIATELY SETTLES TO HIS WORK OF STEADY POSING AND STEADY GAITING. This will come much sooner than you'll expect! After this, DO NOT OVER-TRAIN. Once, or at the most, twice a week is ample. During these once or twice a week periods, alternate the around-the-ring work with walking him in a straight line to and from a given point. Pick a tree, if outdoors, or an object, if indoors, to act as a "stand-in" for the judge and practice YOURSELF walking in a REALLY straight line! A "wandering" handler makes the best moving dog in the world look bad. (I have seen professional handlers"wander" ON PURPOSE with a bad moving dog to make it appear it's the handler's fault the dog is not moving well! This does NOT fool many judges.) If you possibly can, do take your puppy to a match show. The experience is invaluable to him, as here for the first time he has to combine the fruits of his "see-theworld" education and his home show training! Here YOU can test how good your training has been and see whether your puppy really has the temperament to make a show dog. If he passes this final test you can now take him to a point show, secure in the knowledge that his behavior at least will make you proud of him! TRIMMING AND GROOMING Now we come to the physical preparation of your hopeful. As I said at the beginning, there is very little to do to a Whippet to ready him for the show, 1. but that little is necessary to have him looking his best. We will assume that your dog is in prime state of physical fitness. That is, that a combination of proper diet and ample exercise, both on lead and running free, have him in lean, hard condition, neither overly plump or bony. My own estimation of proper weight is when my Whippet shows three vertebrae and just a suspicion of hip bone. It is well to start well ahead of the show, giving your dog a daily rub down. There are any number of varieties of brushes of various stiffness, curry combs, hound gloves, etc., the use of which is such a personal matter that the novice may become quite confused and spend a lot of money unnecessarily. MY chief grooming tool is the palm of my bare hand! If that does not appeal to YOU, the two best pieces of grooming equipment for your Whippet are the rubber curry and the hound glove. The former is used up and down over the dog's body AGAINST the way the hair lies. This serves to loosen any dead hair of which there may be a lot at certain seasons. When you have your Whippet looking like a messed-up porcupine by the energetic use of the rubber curry, set to work with the hound glove (which is a mitt that you put your hand in that has very short bristles on the palm of it) and rub him down WITH THE GRAIN of the hair, this time putting as much pressure into each stroke as you and your dog can stand. This is wonderful, not only for his coat, but also for his general condition, as it causes him to tense his muscles, particularly those of his loin and hind-quarters and is especi ally valuable when preparing for shows in the winter when the weather is such that you cannot give him sufficient exercise out of doors. This form of grooming is something, unlike the show training, that it's impossible to overdo, it's a case of the more the better! The areas to be trimmed on a Whippet are the muzzle, the insides of the ears, the "ruff" down the sides of the neck, the flank or "tuck-up" of his underline, the "britches" down the back of his hind-quarters, and the underside of the tail. De pending on the dog and the quality and thickness of coat (Whippets vary a great deal in type of coat), it will take you only between fifteen minutes and one hour a day or two before the show to have your dog looking as trim as a whistle! You will need a pair of regular barber's scissors, a pair of thinning shears and a pair of curved scissors to do a neat job in these various places. Many people use either electric or hand clippers for trimming the whiskers over and under the muzzle and over the eyes, and some also use these for the underside of the tail. Others use a razor in these areas. The best way to learn is to get someone to SHOW you how it is done. Actions speak louder than words in this instance. Then practice on your dog well before a show so that any mistakes you make can grow out. Toe-nails should be cut at regular intervals of approximately two weeks all during the dog's show career. Remember, nails that have once been allowed to grow long can never be cut back to look as nice as nails that receive regular trimming (or filing). Never cut your dog's nails within forty-eight hours of a show. I cut mine always, if possible, on a Wednesday for Saturday and Sunday shows. If you slip up on this and let it go till the last minute, use a file. Teeth should be cleaned of tartar, and this is done with a tooth scraper that can be bought at any pet supply store, but if you ask him, your own dentist will give you one, mine does! It goes without saying that all white and light colored Whippets must be bathed before a show. Opinion is divided as to the advisability of bathing the deeper fawns, the reds and the blacks. If your dog is one of these darker colors and lives in the house and exercises on clean ground, chances are that he won't be dirty enough to need a bath, and he can be kept sparkling clean by just daily grooming. The rule is the least bathing the better, as it dries out the coat and in the dark colors, the dandruff caused by this comes to the surface and is most unsightly. I have to wash my Whippets of whatever color, even the blacks, as they run around the farm through mud and manure, so they look and smell like back alley dogs most of the time between shows! I have had good success in eliminating the drandruff problem on the dark ones by "putting them down in oil" for about a week before the show. I use olive oil for this, and 1 slather it all over them daily. For a house dog, the excess can be absorbed by rubbing down with paper towels, then a towel or washable blanket put on him will save the furniture. In the kennel this is not necessary, in fact it is advisable not to towel the dog as he will lick himself all over to get rid of the excess, and he benefits as much, I am convinced, from the internal oil as he does from the external! Use the least drying soap you can get for his bath. Believe it or not, I use Elizabeth Arden shampoo for DRY hair on my dogs as well as for myself! The dogs that have been through the oil treatment take an extra scrubbing to get the oil out, but it is well worth the trouble. Of course, as with your own hair, be SURE to rinse well, as soap left in leaves a horrid dull film, and then all your work will have been for naught. Well, that's it, your puppy is now all ready for his first show! Good luck, but win, lose or draw - ENJOY YOURSELF! SUMMARY Most of what I have written here applies to all breeds and is said more aptly in any number of good books on training. There are several ways, however, in which a Whippet differs from other breeds in relation to the proper training methods. To make my point clear, I will list them briefly again here. 1. The Whippet is SMART, he LEARNS FAST and he RETAINS WHAT HE LEARNS. Therefore, AVOID BOREDOM at all costs. 2. The Whippet is SENSITIVE PHYSICALLY. This does NOT mean that he's delicate. It DOES mean that he must be handled with a LIGHT HAND. To those who know horses, he can be compared to a thoroughbred with a light mouth. 3. The Whippet is SENSITIVE EMOTIONALLY. This does NOT mean nervous. (He is high strung nervously, but a really nervous Whippet should NOT be shown or bred from, in fact should be put down in all fairness to the welfare of the breed). This DOES mean that he should be handled GENTLY, PATIENTLY AND WITHOUT EITHER EMOTIONAL OR PHYSICAL ROUGHNESS. The Whippet, if yelled at or handled roughly will react in one of two ways: a) He will turn into a quivering mass of jelly, OR b) If a dog of very strong character, he will turn sullen and sulky. In either event, he is a loss as a show dog. You will get no pleasure from showing him, and he will be a bad advertisement for the breed. POST SCRIPT I can imagine various of my friends smiling derisively as they read these high - flown instructions on training and grooming the Whippet, knowing full well that the author, at least fifty percent of the time, does not carry them out in such an ideal way herself! Well, I DO know they're right, and I DO know I should. SO, go ye and do as I SAY, not as I DO! D.S.W. originally printed in the Whippet News, February, 1963.
Several of our dogs completed their championships, including
Also finished were Ch. Dress Circle Snow and Ice, co-owned with Kelly Bingler and Dress Circle Sadi O'Lazebrcok, co-bred with A.J. Gutilla. Dress Circle Kennel 1462 Granger Road, Medina, Ohio 44256 DRESS CIRCLE And Here Are the Dress Circle Hopefuls for '81 We are still big on brindle
But it looks like fawn is in for '81
Dress Circle Kennel 1462 Granger Road, Medina, Ohio 44256 What A Year ! Ch. Jamal's Desert Digger (CH. ARRIANS FACET OF GOLDDUST X STONEY MEADOWS PERINNEAL)
CH. - Beauty Is Only Part Of The Story "DIGGER" COMPLETED HER CHAMPIONSHIP IN 5 CONSECUTIVE SHOWS, THE FIFTH BEING A 5 POINT MAJOR AND RESULTING IN A GROUP I. IN ADDITION, "DIGGER" HAS DEMONSTRATED HER RUNNING ABILITY, AS NATURE INTENDED, BY COMPETING IN BOTH NATIONAL OVAL TRACK RACING AND NATIONAL POINT RACES, PICKING UP 2 A.R.M. POINTS. OWNER: RUSSELL W.McDANIELL BREEDERS: JOYCE & JOSEPH MESSINEO
Watch for Preacher and Arwen :
*pending confirmation
Flyalong presents : Ch. Moorlands Sir Isaac Newton, C.D. After finishing his Championship in May, Isaac went on to complete his C.D. in August. He is shown winning High Score Hound at Davis D.T.C. Both titles were earned in California. Isaac has recently been bred to another Diver great grandchild, our Fleeting Fairshebe. Isaac is by Ch. Morshors Believe It Or Not (Ch. Pennyworth Would You Believe ex Ch. Stoney Meadows Imp of Satan) out of Ch. Khiva's Elizabeth Browning. Co-owned by Lillian Billings and Carol M. Marshall, Isaac is proven and stands at stud at our home. FLYALONG WHIPPETS, A.K.C. Reg. Charles and Lillian Billings 10460 Albertsworth Lane Los Altos Hills, CA 94022 MASCOT
RIGGS and TYLER Mascot Whippets presents our foundation - TYLER - Can.Ch. Woodsmoke's Mock Turtle Bred by Pat Miller of Woodsmoke Kennels. RIGGS - Windance Merry Madrigal Bred by Eileen Pease of Windance Kennels. They are soon to be bred with puppies expected in February or March 1981. A few reservations are still available for these tightly linebred puppies. They will blend elegance, soundness, correct type, and true, exacting movement.
MASCOT WHIPPETS |
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